David's Daily Diversions

In the Footsteps of the Saints

While on holiday in the Vale of Glamorgan, we set aside a day for pilgrimaging. This area of South Wales was a hot spot for saints in the sixth century.

We first drove to St Athans, which is named for St Tathan, who founded the church in that place. This St Tathan was the nephew of St Illtyd, not to be confused with the other St Tathan from South Wales who was based around Caerwent. Unfortunately, the St Tathan's Church was locked up with no information as to the whereabouts of the key.

We went from there to the town of Llantwit Major, or as it is in Welsh Llanilltud Fawr, "the great church of Illtyd". It was one of the great monastic centres of Britain founded by one of the great saints of Britain. He was converted to Christ by St Cadoc and ordained by St Dyfrig and taught St Samson of Dol.

The Church at Llantwit Major is really two different foundations. The west church has a few remnants of the Norman period, but it is on the very site of St Illtyd's foundation. Immediately adjacent, and separated only by internal plexiglass doors, is the east church. It was built in the 13th and 14th centuries.

As I stood in the west church and looked at the intricately carved stone crosses between five and six feet tall that have been recovered and are preserved in the back of the nave, I realised that I was standing in the very place where some of the greatest heroes of the faith in Britain stood and worshipped in the Liturgy and the prayer cycle of the Church. It was here that St David, the patron of Wales, learned to be a monk. It is likely that on that very spot our family patron, St Dyfrig entrusted the holy priesthood to St Samson. North Wales was also evangelised thanks to St Illtyd and Llantwit Major, as St Deniol of Bangor trained and was sent out from here.

On the way back to Barry from Llantwit Major, we travelled up country lanes to the village of Llancarfan. We found the church there locked as well, but there was a notice that the key could be obtained from either of two houses across the street.

It was here that St Illtyd placed himself under the authority of St Cadoc after having received the monastic tonsure from St Dyfrig. The spiritual foundation of Llantwit Major was laid in Llancarfan. It may have only had 1000 monks (whereas Llantwit Major had a population of 3000 monks in its heyday), but it was very important place.

Key in hand, we entered the church only to find no photocopied pamphlet on the history of the parish. There is nothing to let the casual visitor know the significance of that place. The church is currently without a vicar and as the lady who provided the explained, things are not as well organised as they could be.

As we returned from our day out, I reflected on how life has changed since the Age of Saints. In each community everyone was going about their business, oblivious to how it played an important role in the conversion of an Island and the salvation of countless souls.